WAVES & WOMEN: Chapter 2 – The Science of Stoke
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Time to read 7 min
There’s a certain type of magic to surfing, one which defies all explanations. Why is it that just one single wave can change your entire life? Why is the thrill of catching that one magic wave enough to keep you 'hooked' for life. Why do surfers keep paddling out, even after all those uncountable wipeouts, hold-downs, sunburns, and salt-sore eyes?
Magic can never be fully explained but yet, maybe the answer partially lies in the "Science of Stoke" - a blend of neuroscience, emotion, rhythm and ritual. And for women especially, surfing has become more than a sport. It’s a sanctuary, a rebellion and a healing ritual all in one.
Let us begin. Welcome to The Science of Stoke: Why Surfing Hooks You for Life.
Introducing the Series: WAVES & WOMEN
Welcome to WAVES & WOMEN, our newest story-driven blog series from WALLIEN. Over the next several posts, we’ll take you on a journey through surfing’s ancient roots, explore what makes it so addictive and dive into the power of sisterhood in the sea.
In this sense our blogs do indeed bear much similarity to a love letter - one whom many of us have either written or received - in this case it'll be a love letter to the ocean. One, which unfolds itself over its chapters.
Whether you’re a seasoned surfer or still building up to your first pop-up, this series is for every water-loving woman who’s ever wondered: What exactly am I tapping into when I paddle out? Why do I feel such a thrill when I am out there in the forces of nature?
Let us start at the beginning and welcome to the second chapter.
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Table of Content
What Is "Stoke"?
In surf slang, stoke means joy, exhilaration, or high energy after catching a wave. Besides this impeccable feeling, the glow you feel after such a surf session, Science shows us stoke is actually rooted in real chemical reactions. Namely, the release of dopamine, endorphins and serotonin. So indeed! Surfing really does lighten up your brain. When you surf, your brain floods with this cocktail of dopamine, serotonin, and endorphins - the very same mix triggered when you fall in love or eat chocolate. Technically seeing, surfing is basically nature’s way of flirting with your nervous system. No heartbreak, no calories, just pure salty bliss. Maybe that’s the real magic. Whether you're having a good or a great day, an average or a less than average day - you will always return to shore with a clean slate and a lighter heart.
A little sunburned, maybe.
But definitely happier.
"Stoke is the brain's way of rewarding us for risk, rhythm and immersion in the now."
For women entering a lineup - sometimes with nerves, sometimes with pride - the reward is even more layered: empowerment, freedom and radical self-belief.
🤙STOKED🤙
Stoked a History of Surf Culture
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The Neuroscience Behind A Surfer's High
When you're surfing, your brain hits a so-called "flow state" as coined by psychologist Mihaly Csikszentmihalyi. The concept of "flow" according to Csikszentmihalyi is a state of deep immersion and enjoyment in an activity, often experienced during challenging but achievable tasks. Surfing in this sense provides the perfect environment for achieving this state. Physical exertion, mental focus and connection with nature. When surfers are "in the flow" they experience a sense of energised focus, losing track of time all while feeling a sense of control and enjoyment.
It’s this sweet spot where time distorts, senses sharpen and your ego vanishes.
Perhaps the old cliché about surfers “being high” isn’t so far off after all. The flow state is basically a natural brain high. Neuroscientists refer to it as transient hypofrontality. Translation? Your inner critic takes a nap and your brain runs on feel-good autopilot. As every surfer knows, your best rides happen with a calm mind, no overthinking, no second-guessing, just pure surfing.
What happens in flow state:
- Prefrontal cortex (responsible for self-doubt) quiets down
- Brain floods with feel-good neurochemicals
- Stress drops; confidence soars
- > You become fully present and reach transient hypofrontality
That’s why a two-hour surf session can feel like five minutes and leave you smiling for days.
Once you hit the flow state, you forget whether it’s Tuesday or 2028. That’s stoke. Pure presence, pure joy (maybe a touch of sunstroke but alas).
Why Women Feel It Differently
For many women, surfing is a return to the body. A break from judgment. An act of sovereignty. Surfing isn’t just about chasing swells - it’s about owning space, especially in places that weren’t always welcoming. But now the tides have changed - surfing is no longer a male-dominated sport. Across the globe, more women than ever are paddling out, not just participating but leading. The lineup is becoming more diverse, more inclusive, and more electric with feminine energy.
Women aren't entering a male space. They're expanding what the space can be - grounded in community, creativity, and connection. They're proving that surfing doesn’t have to be about domination; it can be about expression, flow, and freedom.
And the ocean? She welcomes us all.
“The happiest people spend much time in a state of flow – the state in which people are so involved in an activity that nothing else seems to matter; the experience itself is so enjoyable that people will do it even at great cost, for the sheer sake of doing it.”
Rituals, Rhythms & Rewire
Every surf session creates rituals: checking the tides, waxing your board, grabbing your wetsuit, running down the beach and finally, paddling out with anticipation. These small patterns retrain your brain, anchoring your identity in nature, rhythm and resilience.
Surfing rewires you to:
Crave early mornings over late nights (as we all know: the early bird gets the worm)
Embrace failure as part of progress (no falling, no learning)
Trust your instincts (safety first, always)
Seek harmony, not control (go with the flow of the waves, never try to push against a current - the ocean always wins, but she’ll guide you if you listen)
And the more you return, the deeper the groove - mentally and physically.
- Surfing isn’t just an emotional reset; it’s a full-body recalibration. It combines the exhilaration of high-intensity interval training (HIIT) with the grace of movement meditation. Every paddle, pop-up and turn engages your core, builds strength, improves balance and keeps your cardiovascular system firing.
- It’s one of the few sports that strengthens the entire body, enhances spinal flexibility, sharpens reflexes, and still leaves you feeling energised instead of depleted.
It’s a workout, therapy and spiritual practice - all in one salty, sunlit session.
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Why The Stoke Stays With Us
Maybe it’s the rush of riding a wave, or the clarity that comes when everything else fades away. Maybe it’s the literal neuro-fireworks in our brains. Or maybe it’s something even deeper: a rhythm, a remembering, a return to ourselves.
Surfing isn’t just thrilling - it’s transformational. It reconnects us to our power. It teaches presence over perfection. And it reminds us, again and again: you don’t need to control the ocean to belong in it.
The Science of Stoke reminds us that surfing isn’t just exhilarating - it’s chemically transformative. For women, this transformation is deeply personal, offering liberation, clarity and confidence. Whether it’s your first wave or your millionth, surfing rewires the brain and the soul to crave connection - with the ocean and, most importantly, yourself.
This isn’t just a sport. It’s a calling.
What’s Next in WAVES & WOMEN
So far, we’ve explored surfing’s roots and the science behind why it hooks us. But what happens when the waves do more than thrill? What if they heal?
In the next chapter, we’ll explore:
How immersion in the ocean supports mental well-being and emotional regulation
Why more women are turning to surfing as a form of therapy, recovery, and reconnection
And how the rhythm of the sea can restore something modern life has stripped away
Stay tuned for Chapter 3 – Waves as Medicine: Surfing for Healing & Mental Health.
Join Our Journey
Ready to paddle out with us?
Follow along as we tell the untold stories of women and waves. Sign up for updates, share your own surf story with #WALLIENWomen, and let’s keep rewriting the surf narrative - together.
Stay salty, stay curious.
- Team WALLIEN
The Author: Jessy van Wijk
A competitive wave surfer, multiple-time runner-up at the Dutch Championships and full-time student with saltwater in her veins. Between study sessions and surf sessions, she brings her firsthand experience to WALLIEN - sharing stories celebrating the power of women in the lineup while raising eco-awareness.
Related Readings
ASK WALLIEN
Can Beginners Experience Stoke Too?
Absolutely. Stoke doesn't care if you're catching green waves or riding whitewater.
Even on your very first session - wobbly, wide-eyed, maybe even wiping out more than standing up - we can almost guarantee you’ll feel it: that rush, that grin you can’t shake, that unmistakable stoke.
Is Surfing Therapeutic?
Without a doubt. Yes. Surf therapy is used for PTSD, anxiety and trauma - especially effective for women seeking embodiment.
What If I’m Scared of the Ocean?
Fear is normal. It would be more worried to never feel fear at all. Start small. Ocean respect is the first step toward ocean love.
